A woman for all seasons
The painting Embarkation at Calais by the Franco-British artist James Tissot captures the thrill and bustle of a boat journey. The scene unfolds on a busy quay, abuzz with the clamour of hurried travellers and industrious deckhands preparing the ship for departure. Amid this commotion, a young woman cautiously descends the gangplank from the quay to the vessel. She is exquisitely dressed for the crossing from France to England. Her presence captures your gaze—you can’t help but keep looking at her.
Tissot, the son of a textile merchant from the port city of Nantes, had a remarkable gift for painting both ships and fashionable women. He owned a trove of props, including a wardrobe full of ladies’ garments, and kept up with the latest trends through the popular magazine La Mode Illustrée. In the 19th century, a well-to-do lady’s wardrobe went far beyond a single gown. The fashion of the time demanded variety: a skirt, a tunic, a train, drapery, a belt, and all the accessories the art of feminine elegance had devised. A lady of standing was expected to change outfits several times a day. She wanted to pursue her favourite activities with both elegance and ease.
This young lady from the 1880s chose a travel ensemble consisting of a tailored bodice with small peplums, a layered skirt that leaves the feet free, and a draped overskirt wrapped from hip to knee. Over it all she wears a fitted jacket. She has on low lace-up boots and a bonnet adorned with a delicate veil. Long fine leather gloves and a black boa-scarf complete her outfit.
She looks like she has stepped straight out of a recent fashion plate. Brilliantly painted—an absolute delight to behold. The details are enchanting. A porter trails behind her, bent under the weight of her luggage. And what’s that dangling from her arm? A practical carry bag with a rolled-up Scottish travel blanket, wrapped around a parasol, umbrella, and spare shawl. This chic traveller is well prepared for the Channel crossing—and the famously unpredictable English weather.
This article previously appeared in ZAAL Z, the museum's magazine. For as little as 35 euros you will receive four editions that will immerse you in the fascinating world of the museum and its magnificent collection.
